Stories, thoughts and just general crapping-on from Dean and Ally searching the globe for ducks. Ally to save them, and Dean to eat them
Monday, June 30, 2008
Walls, malls and duck...
Arriving we immediately went to Tianamien square. Surrounded by concrete, red and gold, police cars, soldiers, loud speakers and a lot of paving, I felt sad. This square is huge and I could only imagine how many people had protested. I felt more sad that it was way back in 1989 and we have not heard anything since.
Everyting in Beijing is big - the blocks, the meals, the buildings, the staircases! Our first day of exploring was to investigate the Forbidden City (not forbidden for those paying 40Yuan entry). Following our new style audio guide we covered almost every inch. Now, for those unaware, the Forbidden City is massive. Five solid hours will be time to cover it, as we and our feet discovered. There was a treasury collection with lots of old jewellery, and gold items. but the clock collection was more impressive. Lots of clocks from the 19th century onwards with lots of gold-guilding, mainly from Europe with a touch of Asia.
Included in the palace was the abstinence palace. Before a ritual, the Emperor would spend three days without onion, garlic, meat, alcohol or sex. However, someone decided that they needed meat for energy so they ate more meat.... absain means what?? as for the sex, let's just say Emperors had concubines, they probably needed a rest.
Now when a city is built, a moat seems essential, but what do you do with all the soil?? Put it in a pile behind the city and make it a park of course. A nice one at that with a view over the Forbidden City. A small climb really, more on that later...
Next must-see spot was the Temple of Heaven. Photo-man Dean can insert a couple here to give you the idea. This temple was a bit of a favourite of mine - lots of colour:) A nice bonus was that we went on a saturday so all the locals were amusing themselves in the park, dancing, playing cards, and along one long stretch of shelter, singing. I think there were good acoustics because we could certainly hear them well enough.
Kungfu Panda may be popular (especially here), but real Kung Fu is also impressive. Even amongst hundreds of tourists in an English dubbed show. We will now be regular Shaolin Monk customers. these guys are fit!
Now for our highlight - the wall. Great Wall of China none the less:o). We've climbed it! Well a tiny part of it. We made our way to the Mutianyu section - approximately 2km in length, an hour or so out of Beijing. Leading up to the wall, we took a narrow path. On one side a lush wall of green, on the other... "looka looka, hello, hello, looka looka, hello, hello, looka looka, hello, hello, looka looka, hello, hello, looka looka, hello, hello, looka looka, hello, hello, looka looka, hello, hello..." you get the idea. We successfully ignored all of them. Ahead, the path cleared of stalls and their venders and awaiting was steps.
Silly me had imagined a car park part way up the mountain... nope. There was over 500m of steps remaining at the first point at which I felt the legs burning. It was a tough climb to the wall, but it felt great once we got there. We even bumped into a friend on the way. The weather was cool with a mix of cloud and smog. Visibility was 200m at most but we were here and were going to cover all there was. I personally started to regret this after the first few thousand steps - okay, perhaps a little sooner than that. But how many times do you get to climb the wall?? For us, twice at least.
You see, our tour starts tomorrow and on day 2 we go to the wall. In our wisdom we decided that one day could not be enough. After thousands of steps, climbing, slipping, I was wondering if i would be able to walk in another 2 days let alone do this all over again in a tougher segment of the wall. Dean was also doubtful of future walking abilities and was starting to resemble a water fountain (permission granted for this statement). Reaching the north end it was time to walk to the south end. Thousands of steps after we had done it. I have to admit it felt good. Especially now we have had an awesome big dinner (/breakfast/lunch) in our stomachs. I think i will pack a breakfast before our next climb.
Now the malls.... i'll speak of just one - the Hung Hua Pearl Market. It has every pearl, electronic, piece of silk, and handbag that you could imagine, all a little dodge of course. But we did pick up a miniatire IPod Nano, Skirt, USB, all times two of course, for under $50. We cannot really carry too much (damn Ryanair flight booked en route). Despite this, wisdom again, we then went on to purchase some more bargains. My day pack is now packed full and heavy
:( Could not pass it up though.
Now I could talk about about Pekin Duck, but we all know I am not an expert (depite having seen it eaten too many times). I hear there will be a Duck Special, so stay tuned for that one.
Personally, the vegetarian food here is awesome. Tonight, Dean even preferred it to his glowing red pork dish. Again more chilli and garlic, but this time in a new fusion concoction. I will definately be experimenting when I get home.
Oh and the Olympics??? We have not made it out to the bird's nest or the pool unfortunately, but to say the city is awash with souveniers, Olympic propaganda and tiht security would be an understatement.
Now weary, although still walking, we commence our tour tomorrow so I will sign off.
Warriors, warriors, warriors
Things had run pretty smoothly in China to date and Dean and I were feeling pretty lucky. In all of my travels I have previously had only 1 or 2 flights delayed and only for 30 minutes or so... you see where this is going. Shanghai, with all it's smog, had bad weather. Our airport was closed, so we were ushered to the other airport (no english spoken so we were a little curious...), where we waited whilst other planes were cancelled and 3 hours after our scheduled time we boarded. Then we sat in the plane, for another 2 1/2 hours. After landing in Xi'An, tired, we boarded the airport suttle bus. Some guy flipped out. Turns out he believed that somone had pinched his wallet. We believe he dropped it but of course this could not be the case. The police were called. After checking everyone's paper's and passports (but not mine - celebritism strikes in a good way), we were informed by the police (via a Kiwi's Chinese wife) that the bus had video cameras, they were going to check them and in the meantime we were to be shifted to another bus. On the way to the new bus, the wallet was found, but the investigation continues.... Oh, and we were all suspects. More waiting. the Policeman comes back on board and very officially states "we know who did it but we don't have the proof', then saluted us and left. Now, despite my Forensic experience, I am pretty sure that without the police witnessing it, and there being nothing in the footage, and personally being an eyewitness to the guy getting on the bus, sitting, and flipping out, that the police would not have had a clue who, if anyone had stolen the wallet. Dean, the Kiwi in front and myself all conlcluded that the guy dropped his wallet. We arrived at Shanghai airport (#1) at 10am. We arrived in Xi'An at 9pm. Only 2 hours was flying... Grrrrr
Sorry, criminal detour over. Xi'An itself is great. Flashing neon everyewhere (obsession with lights continues), restored Chinese architecture and a vibrancy met us on our eventual arrival into town. Our hostel, was fantastic. On arrival we needed to book an overnight train from Xi'An to Beijing in a couple of days. They informed us that flights were cheaper, so they booked them for us. Ahhhh. Good help makes all the difference. They also had a gorgeous tabby cat (Mini Moe for G & L) whom's name frightfully sounded like Hotpot!!! (He was looking very alive and loved when i left:). The hostel also had a golden retriever, also alive and loved when we left:). I think they were actually safely pets:)
Now back to the warriors. The first emperor of China had 721,000 people carve out thousands of warriors to have in his tomb when he died. Made of Terracotta, carved and painted, they were placed in his tomb for his eventual death. Shortly after he died there was a bit of chaos. Some guys (an army or so) came and crashed through the tomb, damaging the warriors and setting it alight. (Doh for the 721,000 who had to make them). In the 70s, some farmers found some pieces of warrior in a well and they have been excatvating ever since. The Warriors themselves were life-size (if you are Chinese) and fantastic. There were chariots to see and the different excavations. highly recommend them.
The remainder of our time in Xi'An was spent checking out Goose Pagodas and a temple that had many signs pointing to the sayings off Tripitaka , and we got to see them. No Monkey or Pigsy though.
By this stage, Dean was salivating for some Peking duck so Beijing, look out!
ally
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Hangzhou and the West Lake
Well, it is. Our trip to Hangzhou started with a superb train ride out of Shanghai (leaving Shanghai was a good thing, leaving on a spacious, clean and fast train was a bonus, seriously the best train we've been on).
The city of Hangzhou is pretty much the same as the other big cities we've been to so far - huge numbers of apartment blocks and skyscapers, massive shopping malls, and bus/car/bike/truck mayhem everywhere.
However, just on the edge of the city is a lake that seems to be a favourite for Chinese tourists. A large lake surrounded by lush gardens, bridges and pagodas, once you're next to the lake you can't hear the traffic any more and it is a welcome relief to just sit and do nothing for once.
As usual, the skies were overcast for us, but it only added to the peacefulness of the area. Even when it rained it was still nice for a walk.
The "love bridge" on the lake
We stayed in a nice little guesthouse, with very helpful staff and nice cold beer to come back to after a day's sightseeing.
Ally on the lake, with the Leifeng Pagoda in the background
Some more temples in a complex next to the lake dedicated to... some important
dude...
The main night market in town is the best we've been to so far, hundreds of little stores, for a change NOT all selling the same crap (why someone in a store would ask you to looka-looka at the same handbags and dolls as the previous 10 stores that you've just ignored always amazes me... )
I ate a heap of who-knows-what, we watched a little shadow puppet show and just walked around checking out all the different things on offer. Apparently Hangzhou is famous for it's silk, it's main brand of tea (Longjing) and, somehow, scissors... we didn't bother with any of these...
Never did find out exactly what Number 9 entailed...
Mean looking dude watching over the night market
The next day we jumped on a bus to the city, and changed to another bus to see a water-city called Wuzhen. This was once a bustling city of traders in canals, but is now a tourist park (sort of Sovereign Hill on water...). It was a really hot day and we were both feeling the pain after an hour or so getting lost in the villages, but it was quite well done. However there was no-one there really, and it didn't have much atmosphere. Nice to see the old-style architecture (or replicas of...)
Wuzhen photos
So we jumped on the bus back into town and waited for the shuttle to take us back to West Lake.
Only problem was, the bus had finished for the day, so we were a bit stuck. we asked (by 'asked' i mean pointed and grunted in a manner that surely translated properly) a few people for help finding another bus, and eventually a guy helped us out... a lot... not speaking a word of english, we managed to point out where we wanted to go.
First he checked with a few cops, before one of them told him a bus to get to the other side of town, so we got on it, and he jumped on with us, and then paid for us! Once on the other side of town, we all got off, he hailed a cab, and again jumped in with us, took us back to the lake, then paid again, jumped out and ran off!
We've had quite a few experiences like that, where people just look after you brilliantly and will take nothing in return...
I reckon if you wanted to be a bastard, you could probably travel and eat for nothing if you just sweet-talked (or sweet-grunted) a few locals along the way... they're that nice...
The initial plan was to have 2 days in Hangzhou, and then Ally wanted us to get another bus to a mountaintop region called Moganshan, which apparently is a cool, forested area that's meant to be nice for chilling. However, enjoying the West Lake as we were, with quite a few sights left to see, and our day's experience getting stranded in the city, we decided to stay a few more nights where we were and take it easy. We managed to get one more night at our hostel, but the saturday night apparently the whole area gets booked out by locals, so our hostel was full. the guy there managed to find a room at a nearby hostel (which apparently was having electricity problems sometimes), which we pretty much had to take if we wanted a bed. Turns out 'electricity problems' actually meant that the one room available had NO electricity (in a place where the temperature is mid 30s and well over 80% humidity, not having aircon turned out to be a pretty uncomfortable... and smelly... experience. but oh well, shit happens.
One of the main sites we were still to see was the Lingyin Temple, a huge Buddhist series of temples that work their way up a mountain. The sky was clear today, which just meant we had direct sunlight for a change, again you wouldn't want to have been near us on the bus on the way back...
Anyway, this was a very cool area. the path leading to the temples has hundreds of Buddhist carvings in the rocky mountains, with little streams running through them, was obviously a great place to get in the mood for some meditiation.
Laughing Buddha With Big Belly. He's like my idol...
One of the temples at Lingyin
A little further up (literally) from the Lingyin was a monastary, partially open to us tourists. We were tiring at this point, but was well worth the walk up, seeing the little orange dudes strutting their stuff amongst great scenery and nice little temples.
Um... bamboo.
Yep... monks...
Once we walked back to the entrance, we jumped on a cable car up to the top of another mountain, which gave great views over the lake and the city. Of more value was that i then found out Ally isn't a fan of heights, so rocking the carriage a little made my day.
Uninpiring day of the West Lake, Hangzhou city, and smog...
Our last day in Hangzhou we spent looking at more local sights. A short walk from our hostel we found a Silk Museum. Not so exciting a proposition I know, but it was quite interesting (and was airconditioned, so anything is exciting when that's the case).
The best bit i think was at the front entrance, where there was a basket of the little guys weaving their magic. Pretty cool to watch them. And the aircon was strongest in that part of the building...
Silkworms at work
We then jumped on another bus which would it's way up through hills strewn with tea plantations, through little roadside villages, looking for the Tea Museum (in the hope of more air-con). A young local chick asked us if we knew where we were going, turns out she just finished her uni degree in Hangzhou and was going to the Tea Museum (and other local sights not yet visited) before heading off to work in Shanghai. So we went around the museum, and our new friend explained a few things to us (her parents run a tea plantation somewhere, so she knew her stuff) and then we asked her to join us for lunch, which, stupid us, she then insisted on paying for.
Ally and 'Bik'
We then got the bus back into town and walked around the night market again. This time, we had a bit of inside knowledge into which shops to bother going into and Ally made a few purchases. We managed to buy our friend (her name is Bike or something, i never quite worked it out) a drink finally, and after more walking around the market were done for the night.
We also went to a big pagoda right beside the lake, the Leifeng Pagoda. The one there now was only built a few years ago (and even has a lift to the top - nice), but was built on top of a much older one in the same spot (and the foundations for which are nestled inside the new foundations, quite cool) with great night views of the lake and surrounds (my photos didn't turn out too well).
Leifeng Pagoda
So it was great to get out of the big cities for a change and relax, a great place to come to 'get away' for a while.
We then headed back to Shanghai for a night to take a flight to our next port of call - Xi'an.
Shanghai - Skyscrappers, Subways and Smog
Nanjing Road. The 'tourist' road in shanghai. Like the rest of
shanghai, left us fairly unimpressed...
Stepping into our space-like capsule, we were a little unsure of what to expect from our scenic tunnel ride. As we launched, it became clearer... technicolour lights, music, and a wise Yoda-like voice began and our capsule launched.... slowly.... through laser-lighted tunnel with 'themes' of earth, heaven, hell, space... you get the gist. Light shows seem very popular here. As our journey ended, we agreed that all the trip needed was some LSD with the purchase ticket to 'enhance' the experience.
Weird tunnel thingy
Hazy skyline. This is actually fairly clear relatively...
This is more like it.
Newly enlightened, we headed for our next touristy obligation. The Sky tower. It is either 450 ft or metres tall (i cannot remember which but 450 metres is starting to sound a little big...), and is a communications tower. Ascending to the top was the usual sightseeing tower fare. The view... well, there is a lot of smog... so we saw maybe 200 metres out. I felt a little ill that this was what we were breathing in. The view was nothing compared to the space museum a little lower down though. A round room painted black with a yoda in the corner and some pictures of planets. Dean's glowing white shirt was my personal highlight.
Oriental Pearl Tower (or something like that)
I had my first dose of blond-celebritism by one little stalker in the tower also. At first he asked for a photo with me, i declined. Later whilst on a different level, walking down some stairs, the stalker was waiting and took a photo of me whilst walking down the stairs! Not happy Jan!!!! Disliking the day we headed for some lunch.
This was more successful. We found an outside eatery, where you simply point at the food you have with your rice and tuck in. So, Dean and myself filled up, with a couple of drinks (inc. beer) and it cost a grand total of $3. Day was looking up.
In fact, the food of Shanghai was the highlight. Our hostel was located in a more 'local' area so we took the opportunity to eat local. On our first night, fresh into Shanghai, we headed out. Completely forgetting our phrasebook, we soon realised we were going to have to find a restaurant with pictures. Walking past street side venders of noodles, BBQs, Dean was dribbling and leaving a small trail. Eventually we found somewhere where I too could eat something. Between the wonderful world of pictures, body language and a lovely restauranteur, Dean had noodles and myself, shredded bamboo shoots with chilli and garlic (I have since wanted every meal to have this combination.... I might be an addict). We were also served a broth on the side each. Looking all meaty, I gave mine to Dean. This was not the best idea, however, as they seemed to be never-ending. After 3 bowls, Dean was a little full. We soon learnt to leave some broth behind.
At another local eatery, they have all different ingredients on skewers and you select the ingredients you want and they cook it up. I got a little excited by this set-up and was selecting every vegetable i could get my hands on before dean warned me that I would be paying for each one. Sighing at the ingredients I left behind, I handed my collection over. The price for mine was 5 Yuan (~80cents!!!!). Dean's was the same and as you can imagine, it was all meaty. The ingredients get added to noodles and voila, dinner is serve, with drinks for under $2. I think that is almost our cheapest dinner in China to date... Did i mention that we also got drinks with that, still for under $2....
Lastly, the subway. We seemed to spend a lot of time on it. Shanghai is massive with around 18 million people and lengthy tunnels. It is quick, clean, colour-coded and bi-lingual with signs and announcements. The best train in all of Shanghai though is the Maglev. The engineers of you may want to google this one. Somehow using magnets in a catapillar style (????), the Maglev train from the airport to the city travels at a cool 450km an hour. This means it takes a couple of minutes to get from the city to the airport and that the cars on the freeways on the way appear to be zooming backwards. It's cool and I want one!
So the tip for Shanghai (Geoff I know you will be there shortly), eat. Eat lots. At local restaurants of course. Oh and bring an umbrella - still raining.
ally
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Hong Kong - land of escalators, thank God!
A little unsure what to expect, I was keen to see a little more of Hong Kong than their airport. It was a refreshing surprise. Arriving in the city, winding our way through the one-way maze of streets, we were talking about the architecture of sky-scrapping apartment blocks - the swanky new glass covered ones and the ones that reminded me of the kinds that collapsed in recent earthquakes... I commented that at least our hotel should not be like that.... I was wrong. Over 15 floors high, the Mirabel Mansion was a communistic block of concrete with air conditioners coming out of every window. I was a little nervous. Our room (windowless) was the bed and an inch of walking space so we were easy to fall for the up-grade with a window and 2 inches of walking space. The new room was impressive given the outer facade.
Hong Kong (for those in chilly Melbourne) was hot, humid and raining. We quickly bought umbrellas and i quickly left mine behind somewhere. Not used to carrying them i guess. We hopped over the islands on the ferries, saw the obligatory light show and then just soaked up the fusion of Luis Vuitton and small Chinese eateries. It only took us a few meals to learn that each time we ate our bill halved. I think our best was around $2 for the both of us, with drinks.
Light show
Street market
We ventured up to the Peak that over looks the city.. saw lots of grey but the walk to the Peak was more impressive. We took the world's (alleged) longest outdoor escalator (~800m) up through steep streets of markets and trendy cafes in Soho. We walked through one of the markets where that familiar Asian market smell returned and fish seemed to be having a hard time with cleavers (yuk). Next we walked through some windy streets and through the zoo. We saw the largest Orang Utan I've ever seen, with a face broader than Bert's. We also saw some lemur's and some scarlet red crane's that were gorgeous. Along the way we met an old guy who had a Bonsai garden in the front of his business and was quite happy for us to admire it and he even explained the scene behind one of them that had huts, people etc in it. All in Catonese. He seemed very proud, and it was cool.
Bonzai garden
Our other interesting stop was an Island called Lamma. We went for the 'easy' scenic walk. Not so hard on the legs, but it was humid so i can honestly say, i was sweatier than i can ever recall. Felt very very gross. Dean could have fixed the Melbourne drought (I'm not mean, he said it!). We were tempted by a local beach for a nano-second - before we noticed the adjoining power plant! The locals did not seem to mind but i was not keen to swim amongst three-eyed fish.
Hard earned lunch after the hot hike across Lamma island
That was Hong Kong. Viv, have no fear, I cannot speak a word of Cantonese so you still know more than me:o)
Next stop - Shanghai
ally