The capital main city 18.12.2014
Back in our little guesthouse, breakfast is
served. Peeled apples and a packaged chocolate roll… well the apple was nice.
Our guesthouse is basic, but having the father prepare our breakfast, carefully
peeling every apple and serving with a smile, made it feel really homely.
The site to see in Yangon is the Shwedagon Pagoda, or so we had heard.
I had a glimpse of the pagoda driving in last night so I had a feeling the
highlight was going to deliver. On arrival we found that it certainly did. As
foreign tourists we were directed to the side entrance where we were greeted by
a hefty entrance fee (18000 kyat) and an elevator. My inner princess was happy to pay the fee and skip the steps
that generally come with visiting temples. After all, I was already sweating
from the taxi ride and it was not even lunch time yet.
Arriving on the pagoda floor, the first
thing to catch me attention was the cool floor. My bare feet were not burning.
I’ve been to a lot of temples across south-east Asia and the burning of your
feet whilst visiting temples seemed part of the experience, but not today.
Marble cooled our feet. These guys need to chat to the other temples.
Shwedagon Pagoda itself was unfortunately
covered with flanks of mats around the bulbous base and intricate bamboo
scaffolding around the stupor. Although disappointed at seeing the pagoda in
less than its glory, I immediately felt for the workers renewing the pagoda
under the mats and scaffolding. The heat, the heights and the lack of OH&S.
The dedication to caring for the monument was clear.
Around the pagoda were deities for the
eight days of the week, two for Wednesdays, split into morning and afternoon,
to reflect the eight days of Buddhism. I was told that people worship the day
they were born. So I found my Wednesday morning.
Surrounding the main Pagoda were two
smaller pagodas, one also being renovated and numerous temples – all covered in
gold leaf, mosaics of mirrors, Buddha in gold, seated, lying. Buddha with
flashing multi-colour L.E.Ds around him… it’s all about the bling.
After some quality temple time, I could
feel my stomach grumbling. We read there was a Muslim teahouse with local food
and an English menu near the Sule Pagoda. Another taxi ride across town and
several map checks and we found Thata Teahouse. It redefines my picture of a
teahouse. It was a three-walled cavern roasting from the heat of the kitchen,
flies buzzing everywhere. This is what we call ‘authentic’. Admittedly I was
relieved to see no vegetarian food on the menu (this is when karma comes back
to thank me). So, after a polite drink, we left. Our chosen alternative was KCC
down the street. It was air-conditioned and lifeless but it would do. There was
also an absence of flies. I had fried rice, Dean had roast duck. For once, Dean
was unhappy with his duck – tough with shards of bone due to a chop chop style
of cooking. Dean actually looked pained eating it.
Sule Paya pagoda itself was far smaller
than Shwedagon pagoda yet no less extravagant. Being place in the middle of a
round-about, we were a bit amazed of the quietness in the pagoda. Pagodas, it
seems, are the place to forget Yangon’s noise and hustle.
That was our morning, and by this time, we
had seen our ‘must-see’ Yangon sites. From here our day was walking and soaking
up Yangon and its exhaust. We found cool spots for drink after drink, beers for
Dean, sprite for me. I was missing wine already!! Dean tried a local snack of
fried quail eggs – he described them as ‘oily’. Shame, because they looked like
a handy snack.
Our highlight food-wise was the Ingyin New
South India Food Centre. I salivate thinking about it. Again a three-walled gem
– though with fans this time. “No we do not have beer – very sorry”. We stayed anyway
and Dean ordered the Mutton Puri Thali, myself a vegetable Dosa. Our waiter,
I’m guessing was 14 years old, had pretty good English. He felt bad for not
having beer for Dean, so insisted on fetching him one – very insistent. The
beer arrived shortly after.
Our Thali’s were so tasty. My Dosa was
wrapped around fried cabbage and beans – trust me – the spices made them
delicious. On the Thalis, a pumpkin curry and a potato curry as well as a
spicier tomato curry. It was so satisfying. “More curry?” Yes, they top up your
curries, brilliant! “Yes please”. The most satisfying part? Over 12 hours later
and I’m not sick woohoo! I felt we were lucky.
Taxis: ~2000-3000
kyat across town
Shwedagon Pagoda entry: 18000 kyat
Sule Paya Pagoda entry: 3000 kyat
Accommodation: $US30
